SOUTH SWELL IN PACIFIC

By: Mike CianciulliSurfing is often a game of numbers. Especially when we’re talking south swells, West Coast surfers can turn into bug-eyed, overzealous mathematicians. But when the local buoys in Orange County peaked late Thursday at three feet at 20 seconds, then shifted to four feet at 18 seconds, everyone put their calculators away — it was clear something serious was in the water. And around here, there are only a few spots that can actually handle that type of long-interval energy. Fortunately, there was a touch of leftover windswell mixing in, so certain SoCal breaks ranged from good/epic to closed-out and scary.Newport’s infamous Wedge pushed 20-foot faces, and a crew of regulars attacked it with reckless abandon. Taylor Pai bravely joined the antics and was amazed at all the visual stimulation OC’s most mutant wave serves up.

“It was refreshing watching all kinds of boogieboarders and Spencer Pirdy flying every which way — up, down, left, right, into the sand, into the sky,” Pai laughed. “I’m just glad the lifeguards didn’t have to come save me because that would’ve been embarrassing. Please don’t tell my mom.” (Sorry, Mrs. Pai.)

The energy rolled right up into LA County as well, with groomed lines reaching as far north as Santa Cruz and beyond. Meanwhile, some pros in the know — and those with some spare time on their hands — headed further south to greet the swell head-on.

“I was already in Cali and I hadn’t been to Puerto in ages so I was excited to get back down there and get some surf,” Hawaiian hellman Shane Dorian explained. “It was a good swell for sure. Puerto is basically a closeout on 90% of the waves, but it’s hollow and there is tons of power. I just assume I’m going to get pounded on every wave I catch. It’s nice that there isn’t any reef though. I still have sand in my ears!”

Those seeking a less sand-blasting experience headed elsewhere South of the Border. And scored.

“I saw it coming last week when I was in Nicaragua and knew I needed to go somewhere for this swell,” Virginia Beach’s Mike Dunphy revealed. “Mexico seemed like the closest and best bet and we found some of the most square, sand-sucking barrels that I have ever seen. Waves were doubling up and going as wide as they were tall.  It was definitely worth the trek down.”

Surfline forecaster Jonathan Warren (freshly back from scoring in Nicaragua himself) breaks down this swell event:

“A large and intense storm system developed on a track from the central to eastern South Pacific around May 9th-11th. As this storm interacted with high pressure ridging in behind it, a strong wind-fetch was established and aimed well at the entire West Coast. Although the resulting swell was biggest through South and Central America as it stirred up some deepwater big-wave spots, North America still received a good amount of energy. This solid swell first peaked for Chile on Monday the 16th from the southwest, then gradually northward through the 16th-20th, topping out for California Thursday and Friday with more of a southerly direction. The Southern Hemisphere has already been pumping, and by the look of things, this season will continue to produce.”